Archive for July, 2007

The Meal of a Lifetime

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In the current issue of The Oxford American Magazine, Beth Ann Fennelly talks about eating the meal of a lifetime while New Orleans was in the midst of destruction from Hurricane Katrina. “I ate wasabi-pea-encrusted tuna, quail with figs and chanterelles, duck with port glaze, and truffled potatoes,” Fennelly said. “The lobster mac and cheese had not yet given up the ghost when the cornmeal-dusted Apalachicola oysters with tasso elbowed their way onto the table. Then the crabmeat wontons…And then they brought out the filet mignon…”And all the while, the magnificent city of New Orleans was flooding. “I suppose that’s a big part of my shame and guilt concerning that August 29th,” Fennelly writes. “Not just that I was dining while others suffered and died, but that the dinner was excessive, approaching grotesquery.”

Fennelly then goes on to discuss the rise in hedonism and the burgeoning food culture, and compares the “gourmet nation” of the prosperous to the “garbage nation” of the poor—those who rely on heavily processed, fattening food to sustain them because they no longer have access to fresh food, and/or can’t afford to obtain it. They are divorced from the land and reliant on the fast food industry. This, she points out, is creating a strange link between poverty and obesity in America.

Her goal, through this exploration, is to eat well and contribute to a sustainable environment. She ends the article by saying:

“My role as a good citizen of our ‘gourmet nation’ is to examine food-table connectivity. I’m encouraged to think about how my meal affects the food chain and the cost to the world’s energy sources, and I’m encouraged to take pride in making wise decisions. But now I’m beginning to notice other kinds of connectivity, some of which are less gratifying. I’m haunted by a simple coincidence—a lavish meal and a natural disaster. And haunted by the fact that perhaps it’s less of a coincidence than I’d like to believe…”

Have you given much thought to the “cost” of what you eat? Not just the money cost, but the social, the moral? Analyze the meal you eat tonight. Where did your groceries come from? How were they grown? Do you know? Don’t you think you should?

Skinny Hot Brown

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Sunday night my husband and I watched Throwdown with Bobby Flay on the Food Network channel. For this throwdown, he and his team took on two brothers from Kentucky, making Hot Browns. Being a Colorado (a half an hour from the border of New Mexico) girl, and now a Pacific Northwest transplant, Southern cooking has never entered my repertoire. You can talk to me about green chilies or berries all day long, but Hot Browns and Mint Juleps? Never heard of them. I learned, however, that a Hot Brown is an open-faced sandwich traditionally made with turkey, bacon, tomatoes and mornay sauce. It was created at the Brown Hotel in Louisville, Kentucky.

And WOW did those Hot Browns ever look tasty! My husband was drooling at the TV. It was 8:30 PM and he decided he had to have one. NOW. We don’t have any turkey, I said. No bacon, either. We have to go to the store then, he said. I was telling him how crazy he was when Ace of Cakes came on, and then I was craving cake, so I said: Fine. We’ll go get the stuff, but you have to make it, and I get cake. Five minutes later he was asleep in the living room chair. I had to settle for Frosted Mini Wheats for dessert.

The next morning I woke craving cake AND Hot Browns. Swell. So I decided to surprise my husband and make them both. I made, and ate, hot fudge chocolate cake, at two in the afternoon, and made the Hot Browns for dinner. Except I still didn’t have anything to make true Hot Browns, and they seemed a bit too rich for my style anyway, so I decided to make a skinny version with whatever I could scrounge out of the fridge and freezer. The results were mighty tasty, and I can see endless variations of this dish. So, pardon me, Kentucky, for butchering your recipe. I always cringe when people do that… but here we go… clear your dishwasher, and be ready to multi-task!

The Skinny Hot Brown is made skinny by:

whole grain bread
Lite soy milk
part skim mozzarella cheese

I also used chicken breasts instead of turkey, ham ends in lieu of bacon, and added caramelized onions. Mmmmhmmmm. Caramelized onions. I can’t imagine this dish without them.

The full list of ingredients:

2 slices whole grain bread
2 pre-cooked chicken breasts (or turkey, which, I bet has more flavor), thinly sliced
1 tomato
1 onion
¼ to ½ lb. bacon strips or ham ends
olive oil
salt

Sauce:

1 ¼ cup Lite soy milk (substitute other dairy at your discretion)
¼ onion
2 bay leaves
pinch of nutmeg
2 tbsp. butter
2 tbsp. flour
1/3 cup mozzarella cheese, or other cheese of your choice, such as white cheddar
2 tbsp. Parmesan cheese
fresh ground pepper

Directions:

Since caramelizing onions takes so long, start those first. Cut the onion in half, peel, then slice thinly. Warm a couple tablespoons of olive oil over low heat. Add onions and sprinkle with salt. Toss in the pan to coat evenly with salt and olive oil. Cook over medium-low heat until onions brown, stirring frequently, about 20 minutes. Once they begin to brown, lower heat and continue to cook until they reach a deep brown color, continuing to stir frequently, for another twenty minutes or so.

At this point, you can preheat your broiler. You will need it in a minute.

When the onions are mostly caramelized, cook the bacon strips or ham ends.

To make the sauce, heat the milk in a small saucepan. Cut a quarter from an onion, peel, and then stuff two bay leaves between the layers. Add to milk in saucepan, along with a pinch of nutmeg. Simmer for 15 minutes, then remove onion and bay leaves.

While milk is simmering, melt two tablespoons of butter over low heat. Once melted, add two tablespoons of flour and stir until combined and slightly browned, about three minutes. Slowly whisk in milk. Continue to stir the milk into the flour/butter mixture until slightly thickened and free of lumps, about three minutes. Add 1/3 cup mozzarella or other cheese, along with the two tablespoons of Parmesan. Stir until cheese is thoroughly melted. Add fresh ground black pepper. Keep sauce warm while you finish the onions, bacon, tomatoes, heat the chicken and toast the bread.

Tired yet? I know. There’s a lot going on. But it tastes soooo good! Just perfect for a rainy afternoon.

Slice the tomato in thick slices. Place in a pan, sprinkle with pepper, and cook until warmed through.

For the bread, spread a thin layer of butter over the top (or skip, if you want an even skinnier version) and either toast in a toaster-oven, or in a pan over medium heat. Place bread in a baking dish large enough to accommodate the size of your slices.

Heat your precooked chicken or turkey, then place the thin slices on top of your bread. Top with sauce. Place in broiler and broil until the top of the sauce is bubbly and tinged brown. Remove from heat and place on individual plates. Top with tomatoes, bacon or ham ends, and caramelized onions.

And that is my Skinny Hot Brown. Version one anyway.

Two Poems and a Recipe by GC Smith

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Photo by GC Smith

A Seafood Boil
first published by Southern Hum, September 2005

You, my frien,’ you got straw hat fo’ to keep da sun away. Dat ain’ too dumb. ‘Specially you gonna sit out in dat little boat all the day. I’s a waitin’ back here on da shore for you to come in wit the fish and da crab. Den we pluck fresh onions and corn and ‘taters from da garden and we cook us a boil. I can smell dem spices a roilin’ in da pot already. An’ dat slice smoke sausage. Mouth waterin’ tinkin’ ’bout them crabs and dat string o’ fish you gonna bring back from da sea. Sun getting low in da sky now and shadow grow long. It now time for you to get on back here, pull da boat up on the sand, and drink a cold beer or three wit me while we wait for the cookin’ to be done. Crank up yo liddle outboard ‘n get on back here now. We have us a party.

A Frogmore Stew

I can make a Frogmore stew,
o’ course, ’cause I know what ta do.

I gets me a new clean garbage can,
fill him half up with water an’
put him on da cooker for to boil.

I trow in six-eight cuppa Old Bay spice, tree pound
a creamy butta, an’ five pound smoked sausage.

Gotta get that boil to a roil, then toss in
ten pound of yellar onion an’
fifteen pound of redskin tater.

When dat water boil one more time,
I toss in two dozen ear o’ new picked corn.

Now I bring stew water to a boil again
an’ twenty pounds of headed shrimp goes in
the garbage can wit all dat other stuff.

Soon as da mess boil one more time
I pour off da liquid and serve da stew.

Course, I gotta trow steamed blue crab on top
and get dem long neck Bud offa da ice.
Now smack yer lips; doan tink twice.

Dig in. Enjoy.
bon appitit!

How to Make Frogmore Stew

A kitchen sized recipe uses:

A stainless steel or enamel cook pot (24 quart) filled half way with water.

About 3/4 cup of Old Bay* seasoning (or any shellfish boil seasoning) and a pound of butter. Bring to boil.

A bunch (5-7 lbs.) of redskin potatoes quartered and three lbs. of yellow onions quartered. Add three pounds of sliced smoked sausage (Hillshire Farms Brand is good, but there are many others). Let this stuff come back to a boil and cook until the potatoes are fork tender.

Six ears of sweet corn (I like Silver Queen, broken in halves). Bring back to a boil again.

Then five pounds of shrimp (in the shell) and reboil.

Pour off liquid and serve in big soup bowls.

Optional: Top each bowl with two or three steamed blue crabs.

* buy the Old Bay at Sam’s Club in the big container, it’s much cheaper that way.

About the Author:
GC Smith is a southerner. He writes novels, short stories, flash fiction, poetry. Sometimes he plays with dialect, either Cajun or Gullah-Geechee ways of speaking. Smith’s work can be found in: Gator Springs Gazette, F F Magazine, Iguanaland, Dead Mule School of Southern Literature, Naked Humorists, The GLUT, Flask Fiction Magazine, N.O.L.A. Spleen, NFG Magazine, Cellar Door, The Beat, Dispatches Magazine, , Beaufort Gazette, Coyote’s Den, Southern Hum, Lamoille Lamentations , Quiction, The Landing, The Haunted Poet. He has completed and is shopping a novel, WHITE LIGHTNING –Murder In the world of stock car racing.

The Champagne Mango

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It took me a long time to like mangoes. They were something I had to warm up to through cooking. I tried eating one plain, and truth be told, it disgusted me for reasons I can’t articulate. Then, because I’m not one to easily give up on things, I made a mango cheesecake. Divine! Shortly afterwards, I prepared a mango salsa, which is part of a recipe my dad makes—Chicken Wraps with Asian Slaw and Mango Salsa. This was even better than the cheesecake. And like that, I became a mango fan. I’ve since learned to eat them plain, but that’s still not my preferred method. At least it wasn’t until I met the Champagne.

The Champagne mango, also known as an Ataulfo mango, is smaller, sweeter, and less fibrous than the more common varieties. It’s like the ice cream of mangoes, with a rich, creamy, buttery texture. Delectable. I could eat them by the dozen. The one downfall? As far as I know, all Champagne’s are imported from Mexico. Though, apparently, the seed originated in Hawaii. Either way, they have a very long way to go, and consume a lot of oil to get there. Try one though, because not every part of life can be ideal and practical, and everyone must have at least one guilty pleasure.

The mango season runs March through July, so hurry up and get to the fruit stand!

One more thing: I’ve never decided whether the skin of a mango is meant to be peeled or eaten. I’ve done both, but generally prefer to have the skin removed. What’s the official “rule”?

What’s been happening at flavor a deux?

In case you’ve missed what’s been going on in the columns—Uncorked and Decanted, Salad Night, and The Pizza Experiment—here’s a recap. You can find the full recipe or article by clicking on the links at the top of the page.

In Uncorked and Decanted:

April 24, 2007: In “Let’s Get Started,” editor Dan recommends a few resources to get you on your way to learning about wine.
April 28, 2007: “Fritz 2004 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir” recommendation
June 3, 2007: Learn about which glass to use with the type of wine you’re drinking in “Stemware.”
June 3, 2007: Almond Champagne recommendation
July 5, 2007: “What to drink?” when you go camping?

In Salad Night:

April 24, 2007: “Citrus Chicken Salad”
May 24, 2007: “Roasted Sweet Potato and Spinach Salad”
June 1, 2007: “Italian Dried Salami Salad”
July 5, 2007: “Italian Wonton Salad”

In The Pizza Experiment:

April 24, 2007: “The Deep Dish”

Gastronomic Geographic by GC Smith

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Gastronomic Geographic by GC Smith

Hot Dog, cheese steak, hamburg,
corn bread, Cajun shrimp, red rice,
Manhattan and New England clam chowder,
pulled pork Bar-B-Que, beef brisket, baked beans

Feta cheese, hero, spanakopia, moussaka, dolmas
falafel, couscous, sheep’s eyeball, pita bread, garbanzo beans,
curried meats, tandoorai chicken, chutney, goat stew, tiger sauce,
baguette, Kaiser roll, cinnamon bun, rye and pumpernickle, tortillas

Chop suey, chow main, egg foo yong, wonton,
Sichuan chicken, pressed duck, twice cooked pork,
egg drop soup, sweet and sour, pork fried rice, egg roll,
crispy duck, Hunan beef, kung pao chicken, Mongolian fire pot

Spaghetti, manicotti, linguine, spicy meatball,
olive oil, anti-pasta, red sauce, mussels marinara,
minestrone, pasta-fazul, roasted peppers, clam sauce,
garlic bread, fettuccine, wedding soup, oregano, Jordan almonds

Paella, bouillabaisse, picadilla, saffron rice, wine in bota,
chateaubriand, cassolette, veal Francais, pate’ de fois grace,
taco, tamale, burrito, salsa, frijoles, fajita, quesadilla, sopapilla,
wiener schnitzel, sauerkraut, bratwurst, liver sausage, sauerbraten

Lots of other yummy stuff
is found in earth’s far corners, but
never anything that has been cooked
by the Brits, or the Scots, or the Irish

Bon Appetite

About the author:

GC Smith is a southerner. He writes novels, short stories, flash fiction, poetry. Sometimes he plays with dialect, either Cajun or Gullah-Geechee ways of speaking. Smith’s work can be found in: Gator Springs Gazette, F F Magazine, Iguanaland, Dead Mule School of Southern Literature, Naked Humorists, The GLUT, Flask Fiction Magazine, N.O.L.A. Spleen, NFG Magazine, Cellar Door, The Beat, Dispatches Magazine, , Beaufort Gazette, Coyote’s Den, Southern Hum, Lamoille Lamentations , Quiction, The Landing, The Haunted Poet. He has completed and is shopping a novel, WHITE LIGHTNING–Murder In the world of stock car racing.